Saturday, April 12, 2014

Childrens Grizzly

Here's a vintage photo from my collection. I like the angled bottom panel on this laskinlamb jacket.

Tuesday, April 1, 2014

1927 Horsehide Blouse

Button front with knit collar, cuffs and waistband. 

Sunday, March 30, 2014

Mid 1930s suede halfbelt

As I was saying yesterday, many leather jackets of the 1930s were lightweight windbreakers.  This one is unlined capeskin suede. Mid '30s Talon grommet zipper, with a sunburst slider and oval slider/puller attachment.  Fancy buckles on the adjusters.  Someone wore this jacket hard, and there are numerous leather patches on the inside. 

Saturday, March 29, 2014

1932 Suede Leather Blouse

I still don't understand why so many people in the leather community associate ridiculous weight with quality. So many leather jackets of the 1920s and 1930s were made of lightweight suede or capeskin. Many were unlined. They were the nylon windbreakers of their day.

Friday, March 28, 2014

1930- Commander of the Highways and Airways

Just a few years later, the "aviator" jacket would come to mean something much more streamlined. This suit consists of a double breasted, belted horsehide coat with a heavy mackinaw lining and matching horsehide breeches.  Add to that a horsehide eight panel cap and tall boots and you've got a serious rig. 

Wednesday, March 26, 2014

1931 Balkan Model Coat

30 oz mackinaw cloth body and imitation leather sleeves and trim. Snap front and paneled styling.

Thursday, March 20, 2014

1949 Aviator / Motorcycle jacket

This Hercules labeled jacket from 1949 is a transitional model.  It has the chest pocket, handwarmers and belted back of pre-war and wartime "Aviator" or "Aviation" leather jackets, with the addition of modified zipper cuffs.  As seen yesterday, the motorcycle jacket in its recognizable form was already being sold by this point, but it's interesting to see the convergence of the two related styles.

Wednesday, March 12, 2014

United Carr snaps

A chronology of United Carr ring snaps which can be used as one more tool for dating vintage jackets.
  Top is from a jacket dating from the early 1930s.  Second, mid 1930s, third, 1940s, fourth, 1960s. 

Thursday, February 27, 2014

Half-Belt Buckles

A sampling of buckles from side adjuster belts on leather jackets, mainly 1930s-1940s.

Tuesday, February 11, 2014

Genuine Native Deerskin

Here's a button front version of the same basic pattern as the "New Jersey Frozen Foods" labeled jacket I posted a few days back.  Same manufacturer?

Monday, February 10, 2014

Two-Tone Fringe Jacket

One last parting shot in the deerskin jacket spotlight.  This is my favorite of the fringed models. The two tone really sets it off. Main zip is a Conmar.  Unfortunately, no tags have survived, but it would be a safe bet to think it came from the Wisconsin area. 

Saturday, February 8, 2014

Mid 1930s buckskin half-belt leather jacket

When you think of deerskin jackets, you probably think of products from the 1950s - 1970s.  You think of western yokes and fringe.  You think of the hippies and cowboys.  But deerskin lends itself just as well to other styles.  Just look at the 1930s A.T. Hendrick buckskin I posted a few months ago.

This jacket is a nice example of a 1930s leather jacket.  It's from the first wave of half-belt cossack jackets.  Generally, leather jackets from the early 1930s had a full leather waistband, like the ones seen on Dave's "Heron" jackets. By the mid 1930, the pleated half-belt started to become more popular, but still retained the leather waistband on the front of the jacket.  This was quickly simplified into a plain front, like the one seen on the Hendrick above.  This one's currently up on eBay for a low starting bid: 

Mid-1930s sunburst Talon. The "grommet zipper" was introduced in 1930. The sunburst stop box came in around 1935. The two designs were produced side-by-side for several years. The early ads for this style show the wide array of colors you could buy it in. This one was originally gold.

Although it's still in progress, I've been doing a lot of research to more accurately use snaps as a tool to date vintage jackets.  This is an early United Carr design, with the spring portion of the snap on the male end, rather than the female. More to come on this once I'm able to narrow dates down a bit more.

Friday, February 7, 2014

Uber Buckskin fringed leather jacket

Uber was one of the big makers. Based out of Owatonna, Minnesota instead of Wisconsin like most of the deer tanneries, this was one of their higher production models. While many jackets of this type are butter soft, this one was heavy, thick and somewhat stiff. Someone wore this one particularly hard, and stored it badly, as evidenced by the field of stretch marks on the shoulders. Main zip is a Coats Clark.